You could save over $60,000 on your heating bills just during the warranty period! With a Nature’s Comfort outdoor wood boiler you can finally eliminate those budget-killing heating bills once and for all! With proper maintenance & operation your boiler can give you 30 plus years of dependable service.
- Nature’s Comfort Outdoor boilers are built to our design specifications by our manufacturing firms in Wisconsin and Indiana. With our design and specifications and the many years of experience our manufacturing firms have, you can be assured you’re getting the best outdoor wood boiler made.
- Up to 100% financing available through Access Equipment & Financing. When you decide to purchase a Nature’s Comfort Outdoor Wood Boiler, you should ask about Access Equipment Financing. If you qualify, you can get 100% of your purchase financed.
www.accessequipmentfinancing.com | 866-892-0315
- Once you’ve made your purchase, you can expect hassle free shipping. Ask us about complete installation packages or individual parts, tools and supplies for a Do-It-Yourself installation.
Nature’s Comfort Advantages
- Firebox is 1/4″ or 3/8″ thick steel (whichever you choose for an NCB Series 175 or 250) with an opening of 27″ x 18″ to handle large logs.
- Water jacket is 7 gauge (approx 3/16″) on the NCB-175, NCB-250 and NCB-325. And 10 gauge (approx 1/8″) on the NCB-120.
- Fire brick grate with slide-out ash pan on the NCB Series for easy cleaning.
- Computer designed for optimum water circulation & efficiency
- Water encapsulated chimney pipe inside firebox
- Easy operation, reliable controls
- Large fuel door
- Pull out ash pan, no need for shoveling
- Easy read float
- Powder coat finish
- 20 year warranty – See warranty page @ www.naturescomfortllc.com for complete details
- Adjustable air control for coal or wood
- Multiple color choices
- Available in 120, 175, 250 & 325 gallon units
- Pump with flange kit & isolation ball valve
- Aquastat for temperature control
- Draft blower with solenoid actuated intake damper
- Temperature gauge
- Motion Sensor Flood Light
Efficient By Design
Heat for less! Efficient by design, Nature’s Comfort boilers function using a forced air draft blower to send air up from the bottom, passing through the wood and feeding oxygen to make a hot fire. the heat from the flames and hot gases go to the top of the boiler. Before it can go up the chimney the gases are ignited and the remaining smoke has to go down to fold around the lower back of the chimney before going out. The blower easily provides plenty of oxygen for burning coal or wood efficiently. This means one thing, you burn less wood for more heat!
Nature’s Comfort Outdoor wood boilers provides you with a fuel and cost efficient outdoor heating system that can be used in tandem with almost any interior heating system currently in use. You can save thousands of dollars burning wood rather than using the fossil fuel alternative. Nature’s Comfort boilers are designed with the firebox (front and back as well), chimney pipe and the sides and bottom of the ash pan to be totally surrounded by water. This way you capture all of the heat. No heat escapes unused to the outside air as it goes directly into heating the water jacket which is then fed to your home system through insulated underground Pex lines.
Features To Think About
Here at Nature’s Comfort, we spend a lot of time thinking about the perfect design for our boilers. When you are looking to buy a boiler, furnace, or stove, consider these features. And if you want to know how we handle these things at Nature’s Comfort, give us a call!
When water increases in temperature it expands. The average outdoor boiler has an overflow pipe while others utilize a rubber or steel expansion tank. Avoid the rubber bladder types due to their short life expectancy which may not be covered under warranty. Those having steel tanks must be slightly pressurized and you will want to avoid these type of units. On overflow models simply add water as needed and don’t worry about pressure or bladder problems.
What happens after the boiler warranty ends? If there is a major problem can the defective part (such as a water jacket) be repaired or does the entire boiler need replacing? Don’t get sold on the modular parts pitch. Usually, modular parts mean small parts. Small parts mean more seams and more seams mean increased chances of corrosion and failure. Water jackets are the main component of all boilers. It is faster and cheaper to repair them on-site rather than exchange them. Modular parts boilers are not a good investment and retail prices are excessive. As for other parts, they can typically be replaced on site.
Depth of Firebox
The depth of the firebox below the door surface is important if you don’t have an ash-pan. Yes, it is hard to empty ashes from a recessed floor! If the emptying of ashes is desired to be an avoided chore, then purchase a boiler with a forced air draft blower and ash pan. Make sure the air from the draft blower comes through under the grate into the bottom of a fire.
The more dry the wood the better seasoned it is and the more efficient the burn is. In other words it produces more useful heat. Burning wet wood produces moisture, which in turn creates creosote in addition to rusting the firebox. But to select, split and season quality wood that will give you optimum burning efficiency takes time and money. There is a trade off that should be considered: purchase a boiler that will give you a choice of type and quality of wood to burn. That choice only comes with a forced air draft unit. A forced air draft boiler will burn almost any quality of wood – wet green or dry. The amount of useful heat and burn times will vary greatly with wood quality but it will burn. A short chimney with the forced air draft will reduce the possibility of creosote.
On an average boiler the smoke and heat from the fire travels to the top of the firebox and might go to the front passing over a few heat exchanger pipes or tubes before going out the chimney. This may work but they also go through a lot of wood. Look for a boiler traps the heat and forces it to go down before exiting the firebox.
There are two basic types of insulation – fiberglass and spray foam. Spray foam has a better R-value per inch however, when subjected to high heat, tends to crystallize and break down. Boilers sweat and foam insulation does not breathe. This makes a good formula for corrosion. The long term winner is regular fiberglass batting.
Manual, Electric or Forced Air? Manual draft controls work on outdoor boilers but they are not efficient. All draft types other than forced air burn cooler which means wet wood won’t burn as well and creosote is harder to burn off. The best way to compare the difference between type of draft units available is to think of a blacksmith working with steel: without a bellows blowing air into the fire, the heat is not hot enough to bend or shape the metal. Hot fires give you more choices of wood conditions, they burn off creosote and above all they have a better chance of reaching total combustion. If you don’t like to empty ashes, buy a forced air unit.
The strongest structural design is a round fire box which is 40% stronger than a square or rectangular firebox. This pertains to boilers as well. For longevity and strength choose a round boiler design. Round designs have fewer welds which is very important. Avoid designs with many welds and faceted corners.
While all boilers are housed in steel there are major differences in design and materials. Look for models with a solid steel roof and not corrugated steel. Corner moldings should be steel and not tin for strength purposes. Corrugation of metal siding should be vertical and not horizontal. If the housing comes in contact with the ground it will rust so unit with legs are a good option.
Boilers with outside chimneys will have far more creosote than those that have chimneys going out the top. The reason behind this is simple: unburned gases when exiting into the chimney cool off, condense and form creosote. Outside chimneys run much cooler and may result in massive creosote build up.
Boiler Door Insulation
The boiler door is the Achilles heel. If must be very well insulated having a minimum thickness of 4″. Some boilers have an inner water jacketed door with a very thing outer door, others only have about 2″ of insulation. Both of these doors will allow for severe heat loss. Simply stated, this means more firewood is burned to get the heat you need.
Door Anti-blowback Catch
Does the door have an anti-blowback safety catch to avoid flash burns? This catch releases the door either slowly or in stages, allowing for flammable gases to escape which could otherwise result in severe burns. Don’t consider a boiler without this feature.
Weight & Type of Steel
The thickness of the steel is very important in keeping the unit from warping or being damaged by heavy logs thrown into the firebox. The thicker the steel, the longer it takes to corrode, but thicker also means less efficient heat transfer to the water jacket. Don’t be misled by the total weight of the unit as the location of the heavy steel place is important too. Some unscrupulous manufactures use heavy plate on the bottom and then very light on the sides and top to reduce cost. Life expectancy of light steel plates is very short. Stainless steel is better for corrosion protection but because it is also harder, doesn’t always hold up to the extreme temperature changes and can crack. It also significantly increases the cost of a unit. Tapping on the plates will help you to determine by sound if the manufacturer is cutting corners. ¼” plate is the minimum thickness recommended for fireboxes and make sure to use corrosion protection treatment to maximize the life of your boiler.